So I haven´t posted since before Christmas and would just like to start by saying Feliz Navidad y Prospero Ano to all of those out there who are still reading over a month and a half into this adventure.
Also, as a forewarning, I will be on hiatus from January 4th till the 31st, but not because I am giving up on my blog, but because I will be out of contact on Mes de Mision. So please come back and read in the beginning of February - I promise whatever thoughts will come out of it will be exciting.
So Christmas - wow. Everyone here stays up until midnight, and on the radio they play this grand countdown (which always used to be live, but then apparently they got worried about the age of the announcer and it is taped now - remind anyone of Dick Clark...). Then, everyone is together in one room (can range from immediate family to 30-40 people) and when the clock strikes 12 and the countdown ends, everybody hugs, there is a champagne toast and then the whole city - and I mean the whole city - goes outside to light fireworks. From the roof of where I was, we could see the whole city and for like fifteen minutes it is just a grand display of everything from bigger booms to the little firecrackers. I thought it was pretty amazing - though I have heard that in some places in the US it is celebrated similarly. Then, everyone has the big meal afterward and people spend most of the day of the 25th itself resting.
Other interesting traditions include having manger scenes that are chaotic as possible (with as much Christmas junk and snazzy, but real tacky lights - that blink in bizarre ways and play really crappy versions of Christmas carols), using a real baby and real involved costumes in the presentations of the first Christmas, and sharing a chocolatada many many times (a chocolatada is basically making hot chocolate - usually super greasy - and eating paneton - which is basically fruitcake, but more doughy. It might sound delicious and it can be, but also remember that it is the middle of the desert here....
Two other events to note:
- They finished building the roof to new classrooms at my school and in celebration cooked some local fare - picante al la taquena - for the workers. This overlapped with the Christmas dinner amongst the teachers that was shared. I have to be honest - I was a little disappointed with it as a party as it started super late (and so I and many other teachers couldn´t stay late because it is hard to get back to the center from there) and was divided into like three groups: the workers who were in a circle drinking beer, some of the teachers - all males ones and almost all of the male ones who were there - standing around in a circle and drinking, and then the rest of the teachers - mostly female - inside eating and drinking a bit. Food wasn´t particularly good and people were not really dancing, which I was hoping for (I have come to really really enjoy dancing). The most exciting part of the night was when I hung out with the workers for a bit and made fun of my gringo self and just generally bonded with them. The school doorman, who was drinking with them, also was still drunk at 9 am the next morning when school started and then still drunk or maybe redrunk at 3 pm when he passed by my house to introduce me to his son (who was thoroughly embarassed). That whole experience definitely reminded of some of the cultural norms (if that´s the right word for it - I don´t know, I feel like I am losing my english sometimes, haha) of Latin American cultural.
- I went yesterday to check out the petroglyphs that are nearby Tacna in a town called Miculla. They are pretty cool and really old, and according to my host mom, are part of a magnetic center that attracts extraterrestials or something like that. At the least, wack job groups who believe in that stuff make pilgrimages there from time to time. I had one of my lowest moments yet though when my host mom took off down the road without me when I was exploring the rocks. I felt really abandoned and upset as I saw her practically running down the road (and everytime she turned around and I tried to wave her to stop and wait, she ran faster). I got angrier and angrier (also, I was pretty hungry by that point) and was annoyed at myself for acting a little childish instead of just running to catch up and play the whole thing as the joke I knew she meant it to be. When we finally reached the road where the buses passed about a half hour later, she told me it was all just to get us to lunch faster. A good lunch of choclo and grilled lamb, accompanied by a malta beer, definitely did the trick for making me feel better.
Lastly, there are MORE pictures up on my facebook, so check them out!
Monday, December 29, 2008
Monday, December 22, 2008
Movin´ On Up
So, yesterday I finally moved into the digs in Habitat (of which there are a couple pictures on my facebook). Habitat is basically like a poor suburb - its quiter than the city, its more of a community, you have to take a bus or collective taxi (no SUVs - pretty sweet) to the center, and its got its own school (Miguel Pro - with whom I will be doing Mes de Mision), but the people live very simply for the most part and it was built by a collective effort with support from Habitat for Humanity.
I think a perfect little anecdote of how I expect life to go is my first overnight experience. After an exciting night of unpacking, moving stuff around, hanging out with the community mates and eating avocado, wheat thins (Christa´s mom brought some from the US), cheese and some grapes (of which I will keep eating and eating until my stomach hurts), I slept well until about 3:30. From then on, between my own restlessness and the gallos going cockadoodledoo all the live long morning, I pretty much slept terribly. At 5:30, I went for a short run, which was both rough, but very enlivening. As I was finishing up, I passed by one of our neighbor´s houses and stopped to talk to her a bit as she was gardening out front. After I nice chat, I went back to our place. About half an hour later, her middle daughter showed up asking if we had a pitcher they had lent to us the other day (I couldn´t find it). Then ten minutes later, one family member (though I didn´t see which) brought over a gallon jug filled with this awesome banana shake stuff. Ten minutes later, her younger daughter showed up asking for two plastic coca-cola bottles (had to be coca cola). Meanwhile, one of my community mates was in the bathroom with a bit of an upset stomach, which I mentioned to the girl. Almost as soon as she left, there was a knock on the door again, and this time it was the mother who had come by to see what was wrong and offerher advice on how to handle a rough stomach.
Wonderful, without privacy, action-packed--I think this is pretty much what life is going to be like.
Other things of note:
- On the way from my host family down here on Sunday, we passed by a passed out drunken guy on the side of the street and the taxi driver and I spent a couple minutes getting him into the shade and getting him awake and alive with some water. Always scary to see something like that - and from what I hear, happens quite often here.
- I have become a baking master. At the host family´s, I made a banana bread, a carrot cake-bread, a chocolate banana bread, an apple banana bread and a chocolate strawberry cake. I have been loving it. The other day I also helped make some ceviche - which is incredibly easy to do (just a helluva lot of dicing) and incredibly incredibly tasty. I have been talking so much about different cooking things and am so excited. I will promise to post about how my X-Mas baking plans go.
- Spent a last great day with the host family and we laughed, talked about the times I got frustrated, talked about all the ¨silly¨ things I did - which to me were just innocent cultural mistakes, but they find overwhelmingly hillarious (like when I say policia with the accent in the wrong place or made some joke about the host father being papasnatas - long story - which apparently means stupid or dumb here) - and went to eat some grilled cow´s heart for the last time with them. I will definitely miss them, but am planning already on doing a bunch with them (including eating Christmas dinner there).
- The former volunteer at Santa Cruz left and so today it was just me. In a weird way it gave me a boost of confidence, though it was also a bit tough to handle at times with the students (who are already sort of checked out anyway). But I definitely comfortable in my own skin there, so to speak, which I think is a real plus.
I think a perfect little anecdote of how I expect life to go is my first overnight experience. After an exciting night of unpacking, moving stuff around, hanging out with the community mates and eating avocado, wheat thins (Christa´s mom brought some from the US), cheese and some grapes (of which I will keep eating and eating until my stomach hurts), I slept well until about 3:30. From then on, between my own restlessness and the gallos going cockadoodledoo all the live long morning, I pretty much slept terribly. At 5:30, I went for a short run, which was both rough, but very enlivening. As I was finishing up, I passed by one of our neighbor´s houses and stopped to talk to her a bit as she was gardening out front. After I nice chat, I went back to our place. About half an hour later, her middle daughter showed up asking if we had a pitcher they had lent to us the other day (I couldn´t find it). Then ten minutes later, one family member (though I didn´t see which) brought over a gallon jug filled with this awesome banana shake stuff. Ten minutes later, her younger daughter showed up asking for two plastic coca-cola bottles (had to be coca cola). Meanwhile, one of my community mates was in the bathroom with a bit of an upset stomach, which I mentioned to the girl. Almost as soon as she left, there was a knock on the door again, and this time it was the mother who had come by to see what was wrong and offerher advice on how to handle a rough stomach.
Wonderful, without privacy, action-packed--I think this is pretty much what life is going to be like.
Other things of note:
- On the way from my host family down here on Sunday, we passed by a passed out drunken guy on the side of the street and the taxi driver and I spent a couple minutes getting him into the shade and getting him awake and alive with some water. Always scary to see something like that - and from what I hear, happens quite often here.
- I have become a baking master. At the host family´s, I made a banana bread, a carrot cake-bread, a chocolate banana bread, an apple banana bread and a chocolate strawberry cake. I have been loving it. The other day I also helped make some ceviche - which is incredibly easy to do (just a helluva lot of dicing) and incredibly incredibly tasty. I have been talking so much about different cooking things and am so excited. I will promise to post about how my X-Mas baking plans go.
- Spent a last great day with the host family and we laughed, talked about the times I got frustrated, talked about all the ¨silly¨ things I did - which to me were just innocent cultural mistakes, but they find overwhelmingly hillarious (like when I say policia with the accent in the wrong place or made some joke about the host father being papasnatas - long story - which apparently means stupid or dumb here) - and went to eat some grilled cow´s heart for the last time with them. I will definitely miss them, but am planning already on doing a bunch with them (including eating Christmas dinner there).
- The former volunteer at Santa Cruz left and so today it was just me. In a weird way it gave me a boost of confidence, though it was also a bit tough to handle at times with the students (who are already sort of checked out anyway). But I definitely comfortable in my own skin there, so to speak, which I think is a real plus.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Almost Community Time
Instead of talking about what I have been up to (nothing super exciting - a going away party for the ex volunteers, doting over the package my brother sent me that had everything from the useful - reading materials - to the fun - chocolates - to the head scratchers - instant mashed potatoes -, teaching some classes, going to a huge mass that was given by the bishop and had the atmosphere of a southern revival), I figured I would just briefly talk a little bit about what I am thinking about on the horizon.
Next weekend, I move out of living with my host family and into the place where I will be permanently for the next two years. Needless to say, I am super excited and pumped to do that. Life will be much simpler - at the host family´s, everything has been given to me that I asked for, we have gone out to eat at restaurants a bunch, they are almost insulted when I try to help out, and while I have felt very welcome, I have just generally felt too like I was a visitor. Now I will be settling down into much more simple digs where I will have to cook, do my own laundry and work with others - but also will benefit from (and I guess at times struggle with) having people that I feel like I can talk and share things with from my own own culture and with similar struggles.
But just to give everyone out there an idea, the house is pretty small, we always have flies about, always have visitors (often students or family connected to Miguel Pro - the school in this area where three of the volunteers teach) from the community dropping in to talk or just generally hang out with the gringos, we do everything ourselves, and perhaps most importantly, we live simply. That means everything from doing it all ourselves to intentionally not using many creature comforts to being conscious of our water usage. It will be both a real challenge and a real learning experience - I am sure.
And I guess when it all comes down to it, I can always give the old host family a buzz when I want to enjoy some of the benefits of the life I have led for this month - which is a true testament to their openness, friendliness and kindness.
p.s. Sometimes I definitely feel my english slipping away - like the other day when I spent hours trying to think of the word non sequitur.
Next weekend, I move out of living with my host family and into the place where I will be permanently for the next two years. Needless to say, I am super excited and pumped to do that. Life will be much simpler - at the host family´s, everything has been given to me that I asked for, we have gone out to eat at restaurants a bunch, they are almost insulted when I try to help out, and while I have felt very welcome, I have just generally felt too like I was a visitor. Now I will be settling down into much more simple digs where I will have to cook, do my own laundry and work with others - but also will benefit from (and I guess at times struggle with) having people that I feel like I can talk and share things with from my own own culture and with similar struggles.
But just to give everyone out there an idea, the house is pretty small, we always have flies about, always have visitors (often students or family connected to Miguel Pro - the school in this area where three of the volunteers teach) from the community dropping in to talk or just generally hang out with the gringos, we do everything ourselves, and perhaps most importantly, we live simply. That means everything from doing it all ourselves to intentionally not using many creature comforts to being conscious of our water usage. It will be both a real challenge and a real learning experience - I am sure.
And I guess when it all comes down to it, I can always give the old host family a buzz when I want to enjoy some of the benefits of the life I have led for this month - which is a true testament to their openness, friendliness and kindness.
p.s. Sometimes I definitely feel my english slipping away - like the other day when I spent hours trying to think of the word non sequitur.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Birthday and Continuous Parties
Lately, everything has seemed like it has been celebrations after celebrations. At times, I wonder how all of this celebration (and along with it partying, at times a bit of drinking - though mostly tasty homemade wine, and generally not working as much) fits in with my mission here, but I keep telling myself that I just need to enjoy the good times and embrace all of the cultural experiences that come with it.
My birthday went really well and I probably danced for about 5 hours. We had an afternoon party up in this chacra-farm and danced there. Then we had to end that to go to dance practice for the traditional cumbia dance that we performed at the big school party day on Saturday here at the school that is in the community where the JVI house is (this school is called Miguel Pro). From there, we went to a bar to drink a bit and then to a night club where we danced even more. I probably have danced more in the last five days then in the five years before it. Tiring, but fun for sure.
Saturday brought the birthday party of one of the volunteers who is leaving and the evening brought some cake baking and learning different dances and dancing around with the host family on their patio. There is one ridiculous one that is african influenced (I think) and is basically hips in and out and hands pumping the air - I definitely look the most ridiculous trying that one.
Sunday was the day of the big school party here and our traditional dance went off pretty well. I promise at some point to have pictures up from it (though I am finding it frustraitingly hard to get photos online). We did our little dance and then in the evening danced a whole bunch more when we were invited to the Promocion of the seniors (which is kind of like a mix of graduation ceremony and prom).
On a more reflective note, I have been noticing some of the growing pains of culture shock. I love the host family I am with and am really grateful for everything they do for me (and all the good times they are showing me), but am also starting to notice all the little things and how much they annoy me at times. Everything from how they taunt me about any mention of any female (long story, but trust me, it was nothing at all to do with a relationship and it was real frustrating to get it constantly from them) to how they tend to repeat a lot of times what I just finished saying without actually listening to it or how they call me Gabrielito all the time (especially annoying when they have nothing to say and just go ¨Gabrielito¨in this real cutsy voice). It feels a little nice right now to be able to just vent a bit, but like I said, I am very grateful and they have been awesome. For instance, after the dance, they were cool with taking me to the nicer chicken place in the center again so that this time I could try anticucho (cow´s heart). Man, that´s some tasty tasty grilled meat - probably my favorite.
I guess I just have to keep that in mind - new cultural experiences have to have their ups and downs and that even during the lows, those awesome moments that I would never have otherwise will return.
My birthday went really well and I probably danced for about 5 hours. We had an afternoon party up in this chacra-farm and danced there. Then we had to end that to go to dance practice for the traditional cumbia dance that we performed at the big school party day on Saturday here at the school that is in the community where the JVI house is (this school is called Miguel Pro). From there, we went to a bar to drink a bit and then to a night club where we danced even more. I probably have danced more in the last five days then in the five years before it. Tiring, but fun for sure.
Saturday brought the birthday party of one of the volunteers who is leaving and the evening brought some cake baking and learning different dances and dancing around with the host family on their patio. There is one ridiculous one that is african influenced (I think) and is basically hips in and out and hands pumping the air - I definitely look the most ridiculous trying that one.
Sunday was the day of the big school party here and our traditional dance went off pretty well. I promise at some point to have pictures up from it (though I am finding it frustraitingly hard to get photos online). We did our little dance and then in the evening danced a whole bunch more when we were invited to the Promocion of the seniors (which is kind of like a mix of graduation ceremony and prom).
On a more reflective note, I have been noticing some of the growing pains of culture shock. I love the host family I am with and am really grateful for everything they do for me (and all the good times they are showing me), but am also starting to notice all the little things and how much they annoy me at times. Everything from how they taunt me about any mention of any female (long story, but trust me, it was nothing at all to do with a relationship and it was real frustrating to get it constantly from them) to how they tend to repeat a lot of times what I just finished saying without actually listening to it or how they call me Gabrielito all the time (especially annoying when they have nothing to say and just go ¨Gabrielito¨in this real cutsy voice). It feels a little nice right now to be able to just vent a bit, but like I said, I am very grateful and they have been awesome. For instance, after the dance, they were cool with taking me to the nicer chicken place in the center again so that this time I could try anticucho (cow´s heart). Man, that´s some tasty tasty grilled meat - probably my favorite.
I guess I just have to keep that in mind - new cultural experiences have to have their ups and downs and that even during the lows, those awesome moments that I would never have otherwise will return.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Bautismo and more food
The old volunteer at the site I will be teaching became a double godfather this past weekend. It was a pretty interesting experience all around - from the fact that it was a mass baptism of 10-12 people ranging all ages, to the fact that the priest arrived late, to the way he had to ask for volunteers from the audience to do the readings on the spot. On a random side note, the lack of timeliness and the way I am mocked for mine is starting to get to me at times. I have to find a way to adapt or work around this aspect of life here - its so different than what I am used to.
But all in all, it was pretty incredible - this humble, poorer family clearly was very happy and excited by the event. They invited me, Brad, and my host family - who came to support Brad since they know him well - to dinner at their place afterwards. They of course gave us these giant portions of choclo (the type of corn they have a lot of down here), big potatoes that came from the highlands and were indeed more delicious, and chicken. It was one of those tough situations where they clearly served themselves less, but as a guest, you are almost madated and it does make them happy when you finish it all off. We talked for a couple of hours and they come from the highlands and basically are just good people trying to get by. The father is away all week working at the beach and was lamenting that he didn´t have any friends there and how life is just kind of passing him by. I will need to make sure to stop by from time to time on Sundays or to invite them over - their openness and hospitality were just touching, and I think very common in the sierra.
On another food note, I had cuy (Guinea Pig) on Sunday and it was served spread eagle and fried (also with big potatoes and choclo). We had it at this nice touristy restaurant, though you still go at it with your fingers and inevitably make a mess. Also, you eat everything - and I mean everything. Probably strangest part of the meal for me was riping the testicles off of the little body and dousing it with some of the hot sauce in order to make myself brave enough to try it. But all in all, it was a tasty and awesome experience. I probably should have saved the head for posterity´s sake, but I did take pictures and will get those up online at some point.
But all in all, it was pretty incredible - this humble, poorer family clearly was very happy and excited by the event. They invited me, Brad, and my host family - who came to support Brad since they know him well - to dinner at their place afterwards. They of course gave us these giant portions of choclo (the type of corn they have a lot of down here), big potatoes that came from the highlands and were indeed more delicious, and chicken. It was one of those tough situations where they clearly served themselves less, but as a guest, you are almost madated and it does make them happy when you finish it all off. We talked for a couple of hours and they come from the highlands and basically are just good people trying to get by. The father is away all week working at the beach and was lamenting that he didn´t have any friends there and how life is just kind of passing him by. I will need to make sure to stop by from time to time on Sundays or to invite them over - their openness and hospitality were just touching, and I think very common in the sierra.
On another food note, I had cuy (Guinea Pig) on Sunday and it was served spread eagle and fried (also with big potatoes and choclo). We had it at this nice touristy restaurant, though you still go at it with your fingers and inevitably make a mess. Also, you eat everything - and I mean everything. Probably strangest part of the meal for me was riping the testicles off of the little body and dousing it with some of the hot sauce in order to make myself brave enough to try it. But all in all, it was a tasty and awesome experience. I probably should have saved the head for posterity´s sake, but I did take pictures and will get those up online at some point.
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